With its neighbours at war, is Turkey safe for a holiday?
Simon Calder answers your questions on visiting the Amalfi Coast, making the most of a layover in Montreal, and tension in the Middle East
Q We are thinking about booking a holiday to Turkey. But with war in Iran and Israel, is it safe?
George P
A After the alarming escalation in conflict in the Middle East this weekend, many travellers have contacted me with similar concerns. Some, like you, are simply considering a holiday in Turkey; others have confirmed bookings for the country in the months ahead.
My answer: you should always be conscious of risks abroad. But for Turkey, as with most other countries, my focus is not on the danger of being caught up in a war. Tragically, conflicts have dragged on for decades in the Middle East, successively causing devastation in Lebanon, Iraq and Syria. But they have not affected holidaymakers in nearby countries. I sympathise with anyone who is concerned about war spilling over, but they should note that the Turkish resort of Bodrum, for example, is over 500 miles from Israel.
I urge instead a focus on a statistically much more likely risk: being involved in a road accident in those places because driving standards are relatively poor. The Foreign Office warns: “Accidents are common and mainly due to poor or reckless driving.” I do all I can to reduce the amount of road travel, taking trains where possible – or trusting in a professionally driven bus.
The Foreign Office also warns: “Terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks in Turkey.” The official advice continues: “Most terrorist attacks have occurred in southeast Turkey, Ankara and Istanbul.” The largest Turkish city, Istanbul, is a wonderful destination and understandably attracts a large number of travellers.
But the vast majority of other tourists will be going no further east than the resort of Alanya, about halfway along the southern coast of Turkey. Cyprus is much nearer to Israel; Larnaca is 200 miles from Tel Aviv. But, again, there is no official warning about threats posed by the Israel-Iran conflict.
For completeness, the same applies for holidays in Egypt and Jordan: there is no warning against travelling to all the normal tourist locations. Indeed, it may be that you could find bargains as well as an especially warm welcome in those countries if other travellers stay away.
Q I’m off to Naples and the Amalfi Coast next week. What do you recommend?
Sarah P
A Your timing is impeccable: after Easter, which has been busy, but before the summer onslaught of tourists and cruise ships gets properly underway. The weather should be fine and bright but not too hot.
Start in Naples, and award it at least 48 hours of your time – so much to see, experience and eat. In a very crowded field of great Italian cities, Naples is my favourite: for the contrast of grandeur and grit, the cuisine, the culture and a spectacular setting. The National Archaeological Museum of Naples (known as Mann) is one of two essential sites: it reveals the roots of the region and the tragic consequences of its seismic location.
The other is the Cappella Sansevero, the Baroque chapel that houses Giuseppe Sanmartino’s miraculously sculpted Cristo Velato – the veiled corpse of Christ after He was taken down from the cross, conveyed in eerie detail in stone. Both venues are closed on Tuesdays. Make sure you eat at least one meal at Pizzeria Di Matteo, which has been serving up a superb marinara pizza since 1936; open 10am-11.30pm, daily except Sundays.
Then start making away your around the Bay of Naples, using the Circumvesuviana railway. I rate the ancient ruined port city of Herculaneum and Oplontis – location for two ornate villas – as a match for the more celebrated Pompeii. Try to stay for at least one night in Sorrento, where the railway ends. The resort has a gorgeous setting, mainly on cliffs overlooking the bay, though with a route down to the Mediterranean (from where a ferry sails back to Naples, incidentally).
Next, take the amazing scheduled bus ride across the mountains to the Amalfi Coast. Buses leave the station at Sorrento every hour or so to the villages of Positano and Amalfi itself. I rate Positano as the ideal place to stay, and to eat. To explore the length of the Amalfi Coast, opt for the bus: parking a rental car is a nightmare.
Q I have a long layover in Montreal in June – around 10 hours. What can you recommend to see or do?
Chris B
A A long connection between planes in an interesting city is an opportunity that should be exploited. You don’t specify the time of day for your connection, but I assume it involves a morning arrival from somewhere else in Canada or the US before an evening departure for the UK. If you check your baggage through to your final destination, you can have a busy and rewarding day before your onward flight – on which you will hopefully get some much-deserved sleep.
The logistics are straightforward. In the arrivals area of Montreal airport, buy a $11 (£6.50) bus ticket for the 747 departure to central Montreal; the bus is marked “UQAM Berri”, the name of the bus and Metro station at the end of the route. This ticket is valid for 24 hours, and will cover all your public transport in the city.
To the approximate centre of town, the journey takes around 45 minutes. Hop off at St Patrick’s Basilica and walk southeast towards the St Lawrence River. This will take you to Old Montreal, a reasonably characterful area (though, in my opinion, not in the same league as Quebec City). The highlight is the Notre Dame Basilica – a Gothic revival treasure, with the added bonus this summer of having the galleries open to the public.
The main art location is the Beaux Arts Museum, and well worth an hour. But the prime joy of Montreal is as a flaneur – wandering the colourful and friendly streets north and east of downtown, with Rue Saint-Denis a stand-out for charm (as well as places to eat and drink). An essential final stop: Schwartz’s Deli – a fixture since 1928, where you can dine superbly on smoked meat. It’s absurdly popular, but you won’t have to queue for long if you are on your own and happy to sit at the counter rather than at a table. Assuming it is a fine June evening, meander south to UQAM-Berri and take the 747 bus back to the airport.
Email your question to s@hols.tv or tweet @simoncalder
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