Exploring the possibilities of bespoke design, from kitchens to shoes

Adele Cardani on why ever more consumers are opting to pay a little extra to end up with a product made just for them

Monday 20 February 2023 04:43 EST
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Floral designer Ronny Colbie takes inspiration from his clients’ lives
Floral designer Ronny Colbie takes inspiration from his clients’ lives (Ronny Colbie)

I have hazy but fond childhood memories of accompanying my dad to visit his tailor. There always seemed to be a decanter of scotch lying around in the studio, surrounded by dark wood, deep velvet chairs and the occasional equestrian painting. There was no merchandise out to sift through, just a couple of suits on mannequins in the window and leather-bound sample books overflowing with tweeds, wools and linens. Bonding over a shared love of design, my dad would explain to me why he preferred his suits with notch lapels and surgeon’s cuffs. There I began to appreciate how a truly bespoke piece is a collaboration between client and maker, and that this labour of love resulted in an exquisitely made possession destined to become a storied heirloom.

In the past decade, as prices for ready-to-wear fashion and furnishings have gone up and quality has arguably gone down, bespoke tailoring has witnessed a mainstream renaissance. These custom garments can easily take several months to create – something that Savile Row shoemaker Arthur Sleep – whose black cashmere slippers are beloved by Prince William – is revolutionising. “Savile Row has always been, and remains, the international byword for bespoke, but today’s customers are not always willing or able to wait weeks or months to receive their finished items,” explains Jahangir Azam, co-founder and CEO of Arthur Sleep.

Bespoke shoemaking for the modern market
Bespoke shoemaking for the modern market (Arthur Sleep)

Fitted at breakfast and delivered by lunchtime, the company has established its new micro-factory, covering just 64sq m, in the heart of London’s Mayfair on the principles of “hyper-proximity”. The process begins with taking measurements of the customer’s feet in a “lasting trunk” equipped with a modesty lid, allowing customers to avoid exposing their bare feet to the public gaze. They stand on a “lasting pad” to take an imprint of their feet, which is used by cordwainers – the traditional British name for shoemakers – to create a perfectly fitting pair. This takes no more than three minutes to complete. Customers are then able to select their upper material, sole type and colour, as well as specify a personal monogram or motif.

A customer has an imprint of their feet taken on a lasting pad
A customer has an imprint of their feet taken on a lasting pad (Arthur Sleep)

Arthur Sleep also enables its patrons to submit their own materials. To date, the team has produced bespoke shoes from customers’ redundant yacht sails, the saddle leather from a favourite horse, a Royal Mint coin bag, cherished suits that have finally exceeded their capacity for economic repair, offcuts of material used to re-trim a 1952 Jaguar XK120, and even a parachute that saw service in the Second World War. The process from initial measurement to completed shoes can take as little as five hours.

The key factor for most customers now is durability – people want designs that are going to become heirloom pieces, much more aware of the idea of buying once, buying well

Commissioning something bespoke can seem like an intimidating task – and understandably so. It can easily feel like an elite hobby exclusive to C-suite men who wear Hermes ties even on casual Fridays and have a penchant for long steak lunches. I beg to differ. With the right mindset and a craftsperson whose aesthetics and values line up with your own, it can be approachable and incredibly rewarding. From sofas to florals, here’s why the UK’s leading designers recommend that you consider a bespoke investment.

Designer Christian Watson, founder of Christian Watson handmade furniture, tells me: “The bespoke and tailored side of our studio has been gaining pace over the last year as consumers are looking for stand-out designs that are an opposition to ‘fast-furniture’ design homogeny.”

A Littleton armchair in cork
A Littleton armchair in cork (Christian Watson)

He continues, “low price-point furnishings can sound appealing but, in most cases, the build quality and materials are lacking. Often, you’ll need to replace these items multiple times. We’re a small studio manufacturing in London, so we’re able to work one-on-one with clients and create products for the home that can be built to any specification that’s needed. The key factor for most customers now is durability – people want designs that are going to become heirloom pieces, much more aware of the idea of buying once, buying well.”

London-based celebrity interior designer, Naomi Astley Clarke, echoes this, believing firmly in the maxim that you get what you pay for. “Whilst bespoke pieces are comparatively expensive, the finish and longevity of handcrafted items will far outlive that of high-street options.” She continues: “Never underestimate the aesthetic value of a proper fit. Going bespoke is all about making something fit and function perfectly. It allows you to optimise space which is particularly important for city apartments where it is at a premium.”

‘Going bespoke allows you to optimise space,’ says Naomi Astley Clarke
‘Going bespoke allows you to optimise space,’ says Naomi Astley Clarke (Naomi Astley Clarke)

Astley Clarke’s designs are highly tailored to reflect each client’s unique interests and way of life – from a shoe cupboard that she customised to the owner’s exact size, and made-to-measure shelving of varying heights to ensure proportionally perfect storage for treasured Brit and MTV awards, to seating solutions that are handpicked with comfort for a Hollywood actor’s script-reading in mind.

She concludes: “If nothing else, I always recommend to my clients that they prioritise commissioning bespoke kitchen cabinets and built-in shelving.” If the past few years have taught us anything about our homes, it is just how hard our kitchens must work – providing nourishment whilst also acting as homework spaces, conference rooms and dinner party venues. Nobody understands this more than designer Tom Howley who fits over a hundred bespoke kitchens a month.

Hartford Collection in Avocado
Hartford Collection in Avocado (Tom Howley)

“While our design team is exceptionally passionate about aesthetics, symmetry and beauty, our kitchen furniture is bespoke because it allows us to ensure the placement of everything is just right,” says Howley. “We champion thoroughly considered, purpose-driven design. For example, we might put your sink in the island directly opposite the hob so that you’re only one step away from draining a large pot of boiling pasta, and your food storage can be strategically placed beside significant worktop space, allowing you to conveniently rest heavy shopping bags whilst filling the fridge.”

A bespoke commission is bound to be an investment, but not all custom furniture is created solely for luxury homes where money is no object. Many design houses offer a range that they make as standard with extensive personalisation options, which will almost certainly be more affordable than requesting something completely from scratch. For example, global design brand Andrew Martin offers made-to-order sofas where you can choose the silhouette, size, fabric and details – from leg finishes to standout stud options. Think of this similarly to made-to-measure tailoring, whereas opposed to drawing up a brand new, unique paper pattern, the tailor makes modifications to an existing one. Andrew Martin’s custom sofa prices start from £1,895 – whilst it’s not uncommon for an entirely bespoke commission, such as those by furniture maker Matthew Cox, to start at around £5000.

Great Gatsby wallpaper, Truman sofa in Hedgerow plain linen, and Danny desk
Great Gatsby wallpaper, Truman sofa in Hedgerow plain linen, and Danny desk (Andrew Martin)

If you’re not in the market for new furniture but still crave the personalisation that a bespoke commission promises, Andrew Martin’s founder, Martin Waller, advises: “On a smaller scale, opt for bespoke accessories. Think cushions and lampshades in a fabric and finishes of your choice which inject individuality into your home without having to overhaul the entire existing scheme.” Or consider investing in bespoke blooms for your special occasion tabletops and fireplace mantle.

Luxury floral designer and former lead florist of the Soho House group, Ronny Colbie, says: “To me, flowers are extremely personal. It is not only their visual beauty that leads people to connect with and appreciate them, but also their scents, which stir up recollections, evoking fond memories.” He explains to me that he taps into a person’s floral preferences by first understanding who they are through the things that they love – their fashion taste, favourite designers, interiors style, chosen wallpapers, and the books and magazines they read. From there, he intuitively develops an arrangement or installation that is bespoke to his client’s aesthetic and occasion, but is also true to their personality. Ronny’s clients include Jo Malone, Jimmy Choo and Ralph Lauren.

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