Best of the EU

10 of the best boutique hotels in Europe

Here’s where to stay when you need a trip down memory lane. By Cathy Adams

Sunday 09 February 2020 14:08 EST
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Simpler times: Orania Berlin is the coolest place to stay in Kreuzberg
Simpler times: Orania Berlin is the coolest place to stay in Kreuzberg (Orania.Berlin)

America might have invented the boutique hotel but Europe put them on the map. Case in point is London’s very own Blakes, designed by noted stylist Anoushka Hempel, which was one of the very first boutiques to open its doors in 1981. Ever since, boutique hotels have mushroomed across the world’s cities, inspiring travellers to ditch the mundane chain hotel and stay somewhere that offered them something a little more characterful than just a bed for the night and a breakfast the next morning.

The continent is full of splashy boutique properties, all with their own flavour and character. Here are 10 of the best.

Catch some sun on Barcelona's Cotton House rooftop
Catch some sun on Barcelona's Cotton House rooftop (Marriott)

Cotton House, Barcelona

Nineteenth-century Cotton House is housed in Barcelona’s former Association of Cotton Manufacturers, and this heritage seeps into every part of the Gran Via property. Sumptuous interiors (think leather chesterfields, wingback chairs, prim white sheets... all cotton, naturally) and the hotel library are no match for the hotel’s most Instagrammable spot: above and below the 1950s spiral staircase, complete with hanging orb-like lamps.

The Hotel Bristol occupies a prime spot in Old Town Warsaw
The Hotel Bristol occupies a prime spot in Old Town Warsaw (Marriott)

Hotel Bristol, Warsaw

The historic neo-renaissance Hotel Bristol, which has been a hospitality mainstay in the Polish capital since the turn of the century, has enjoyed an illustrious past life: it once served as a German army headquarters during the war, and then the city’s university library. Today it’s been repaired to its former Art Nouveau glory, with plush, unstuffy interiors and the delightful Cafe Bristol with chequerboard floor and delicate pastries (worth a visit even if you’re not staying). The location is hard to beat – the hotel is in the heart of Warsaw’s Old Town on the so-called Royal Route, next to the presidential palace.

Orania Berlin, housed in a five-storey building that dates back to 1912, is the coolest place to stay in Kreuzberg
Orania Berlin, housed in a five-storey building that dates back to 1912, is the coolest place to stay in Kreuzberg (Orania.Berlin)

Orania, Berlin

You’ll want to stay in Kreuzberg if you come to Berlin. Once a cheap and neglected neighbourhood on the easternmost edge of the wall, Kreuzberg – “Little Istanbul” – has long been the city’s trendiest district (street art, banging Turkish food, late-late-late bars). The best place to base yourself is at Orania, which meshes homey suites with live music downstairs, making it a real neighbourhood spot. This five-storey hotel on the corner of Oranienplatz has been through various incarnations since it was built in 1912 (including a nightclub called Trash – in Kreuzberg there’s always a nightclub) but today is a red and gold, fire pit-lit boutique with a yummy restaurant.

Full-frontal view of the chateau at Domaine des Etangs
Full-frontal view of the chateau at Domaine des Etangs (Cathy Adams)

Domaine des Etangs, France

In pastoral Massignac in central France is this 2,000-plus acre estate, which combines 900 brown cows (which look at you disconcertingly every time you drive past them), an 11th-century chateau, a mill turned high-end spa, a futuristic art gallery and a working farm. Phew. Inside, the chateau mixes traditional hospitality with some very up-to-the-minute art – expect to see anything from a Hermes scarf and Star Wars film posters to insects and images of constellations mounted on the wall. The vibe here is very much unplug and recharge, helped by its Michelin starred restaurant Dyades and the rolling hills and 40 ponds ripe for a lazy cycle.

The art nouveau exterior of the Left Bank's Hotel Lutetia
The art nouveau exterior of the Left Bank's Hotel Lutetia (Lutetia)

Hotel Lutetia, Paris

The left bank Hotel Lutetia, which had a splashy reopening last summer, has always been a hotbed of creativity – much like the area, St Germain, that surrounds it. During the Second World War, the hotel housed St Germain’s exiled musicians and artists, before being bought by the family behind champagne house Taittinger. Storied guests including Pablo Picasso and James Joyce – who wrote Ulysses here – are in the guestbook. Today it’s one of the rive gauche’s only luxury hotels, complete with three new dining destinations: the Art Nouveau Brasserie Lutetia, with hand-painted columns, is a real treat.

A Super room at The Dean
A Super room at The Dean (The Dean)

The Dean, Dublin

Young-at-heart, The Dean takes over a series of Georgian townhouses in the heart of Dublin, not far from shopping haven Grafton Street. The vibe is smart and sophisticated – there’s more than a little Brooklyn about this place – with a smashing rooftop with views over the city and beyond, plus: pizza. Little touches in this design property go a long way. There are hot water bottles in the rooms, retro music players and little notes saying “what’s the craic?”. Rates aren’t extortionate either – which is a nice change for the Irish capital.

Ushuaia - part beach club, part hotel, wholly good time
Ushuaia - part beach club, part hotel, wholly good time (Palladium Hotel Group)

Ushuaia, Ibiza

It’s hard to know whether to classify Ushuaia as a luxury hotel or an all-out nightclub (it’s both). This Playa d’en Bossa hotel stages highly popular day parties (sought-after residencies last year included Calvin Harris, David Guetta and Martin Garrix) while luxury villa-style rooms frame the stage. The white lacquer, flora and fauna-covered Ushuaia Tower next door kicks the luxury element up a notch: round leather daybeds inside mirrored rooms, sex toys in the minibar and hot tubs on the balcony to hear the eardrum-banging from a little further away.

If you're not staying, swing by for a drink at The Thief Oslo
If you're not staying, swing by for a drink at The Thief Oslo (Thief Oslo)

The Thief, Oslo

So named for its location on Oslo’s Tjuvholmen “Thief” Island, this nine-storey curved glass property, designed by local firm Mellbye Architects, is all about art. The Renzo Piano-designed Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art is nearby (and some room rates come with free passes) and there’s artwork from Damien Hirst and Jeff Koons inside. Light-filled rooms (thanks to the floor-to-ceiling windows) overlook the moody harbou

The grand exterior of Rosa Alpina
The grand exterior of Rosa Alpina (Daniel Tochterle)

Rosa Alpina, Italy

Lording it over the pretty South Tyrolian village of San Cassiano is the utterly charming lodge Rosa Alpina. Soft rugs, stone floors and lots of Japanese brushed pine feature in this pared-back luxury property, which also has a standout spa complete with Finnish-style sauna overlooking the Italian Dolomites. Talking of the Dolomites, it’s also a good base for skiing the wider Alta Badia, although there’s a cross-country ski track nearby if you can’t hack the proper powder. Save room (and cash) for a three Michelin starred dinner at St Hubertus, run by local produce advocate Norbert Niederkofler, which adjoins the hotel.

The best view in Naples is found on the roof of Hotel Romeo
The best view in Naples is found on the roof of Hotel Romeo (Hotel Romeo)

Hotel Romeo, Naples

Once gritty, now (sort of) glamorous Naples has one place worth bedding down in: Hotel Romeo. The standout element of this boutique property is the tiny rooftop pool, perfect for posing or gazing over Vesuvius bubbling away in the distance. The hotel, designed by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange (so expect lots of wood and pared-back design), turns a kind of nuclear blue at night, which makes it feel impossibly urban. Romeo is also a perfect launching pad for the nearby islands of Capri and Ischia as it’s right opposite the ferry port.

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