There's no doubt that SPF has come a long way in terms of diversity. The increase in research and innovation has meant that, for the most part, brands are now creating SPFs that keep darker skin tones in mind.
However, we still have some way to go before we no longer have to fear the residue that famously leaves a white or ashy cast on the skin. That's why we've tried and tested an array of products on the market, to see which ones are best for dark skin tones.
SPF is the essential blockade between UVA, UVB and high-energy visible (HEV) rays penetrating the skin. Even the darkest skin tones only obtain a natural protection rate of SPF 13.4, which is down to the increased pigment (melanin) in the skin.
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In the past, this may have been considered satisfactory for some, but rays can still be detrimental to darker tones, not only because of the risk of skin cancer, but also the fact that UV radiation affects the melanin which, if unmonitored and unprotected, leads to the development of hyperpigmentation, age spots and premature ageing – dispelling the myth that black skin doesn’t crack!
Whilst UVB causes sunburn and UVA causes deeper damage, such as hyperpigmentation and melasma, HEV rays – more commonly known as blue light – emitted by the sun and digital devices also cause long-term damage to the skin. Penetrating further than UVA, the damage can result in premature wrinkles, uneven texture and further pigmentation.
So how do you go about preventing this? Applying a minimum factor of SPF30 to the skin as frequently as possible should help you obtain maximum protection. As for shielding from HEV rays, it's recommended you invest in an SPF that contains antioxidants, as they fight against free radicals and oxidative stress, as well as help to defend against the chain reaction of damage that can visibly and invisibly affect the skin.
Granted, there are an overwhelming variety of SPFs on the market – even just distinguishing between the two main types can be difficult enough. Plainly put, mineral SPFs work on the skin’s uppermost layers to both absorb and deflect the sun’s rays. Whereas chemical SPFs (otherwise known as synthetic SPFs) absorb into the skin and then deflect the rays by converting them into heat and diminishing their harmful properties.
But here's the problem – traditional mineral SPFs are formulated with both zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which leave the white cast we typically fear. That said, improved formulations now mean that both mineral and chemical SPFs are viable options for people of colour to use alongside skincare and make-up.
Ultimately it comes down to personal preference. Mineral SPFs tends to be a thicker texture while chemical SPFs are often water-resistant, sensitising and can penetrate the skin’s upper layers. We’ve selected the best SPFs from both categories that you can trust not to leave any cast, and which will provide the optimum protection against UVA, UVB and HEV rays.
You can trust our independent reviews. We may earn commission from some of the retailers, but we never allow this to influence selections, which are formed from real-world testing and expert advice. This revenue helps us to fund journalism across The Independent.
