How to apply blusher to suit your face shape, according to a make-up artist

Plus, the MUA-approved blushes worth a spot in your make-up bag

Louise Whitbread
Monday 03 June 2024 08:51 EDT
These are the makeup artist tips and tricks for mastering the art of blush
These are the makeup artist tips and tricks for mastering the art of blush (The Independent)

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Blusher is a make-up product that can transform your complexion. It can add a healthy flush of colour across cheeks, give skin a radiant, glowy finish or be strategically applied to have a lifted effect. However, there are a few factors you should consider before adding a blush to your shopping basket, including skin tone, formula, finish, and of course, budget.

Blush comes in many forms – including gel, liquid, cream and powder – and in varying finishes, ranging from matte, glowy, sheer or satin. To help dissect everything you need to know about finding the right blush for your skin tone, we’ve enlisted the help of a professional to explore exactly what to look for in a blush that’s flattering, and how to apply it. Meet Aarti Pal, makeup artist and founder of the South Asian Beauty Collective.

Pal has shared her expert application techniques for seamless blending every time as well as her top picks for blush across all skin tones, so you never have to worry about looking clownish rather than chic again.

Finding the right blush shade for your skin tone

When looking for a shade that compliments your complexion best, Pal’s key tip is to consider your skin’s undertones and depth.

“Fair skin with cool undertones looks great with soft pinks, while warm undertones pair well with peachy hues. Medium skin tones can handle richer pinks and deeper peaches. Deep or dark skin tones shine with bold, berry, or brick-coloured blushes,” she explains.

If you’re at a beauty counter or trawling the aisles at Boots, she recommends swatching different shades on your wrist or cheek to see how they blend with your natural skin before committing to buying anything.

Understanding the different types of blush

Blush doesn’t just come in one iteration. There are cream, powder, gel and blush formats, each with varying colour payoff and longevity.

According to Pal, cream textures offer a dewy finish and last well on normal to dry skin types, but can fade faster on oily skin unless set with a translucent powder over the top.

“Gel blush typically has a sheer, natural finish and can be long-lasting, especially on combination to oily skin. It’s less likely to budge once set, while liquid blush often provides a natural, buildable colour and stays well on most skin types. It can be particularly long-wearing if layered properly.”

Lastly, she advises using a powder blush on oily to combination skin, because it often has a matte finish and good staying power. “It might need touch-ups on dry skin to avoid a patchy look,” she says.

How to apply blush on different face shapes

When it comes to blush, it’s important to tailor the application to your face shape. This is not a case one size fits all. Pal’s advice for long faces is to apply blush to the apples of the cheeks and blend outward towards the temples to add width. For square faces, her top tip is to soften angles by blending slightly towards your temples.

“On narrow faces, focus on the apples of the cheeks to create the illusion of fuller cheeks, and on round faces, apply blush slightly higher on the cheekbones and blend upwards towards the ears to elongate the face.” According to Pal, the most common mistake people make is applying too much product at once. “This can lead to a heavy, unnatural look. It’s better to build up the colour gradually and blend thoroughly to achieve a seamless, flushed appearance.”

Picking the right tools for the job

Depending on the type of blush you’re using, you will require different tools. Some are better suited to a sponge, while others can be as fuss-free as using your fingers to dab onto cheeks.

If you’re a fan of powder blush, Pal recommends using a fluffy, angled blush brush which allows for “precise yet diffused application”.

Should a cream or liquid blush take your fancy, try a damp make-up sponge for a seamless finish. “For cream blushes, fingers can be used to tap and blend the product into the skin, warming it up for a natural look,” the MUA says.

The best blushes for different skin tones

We were also keen to find out exactly what blush products Pal keeps in her kit. Her favourite blush product for fair complexions is Bobbi Brown blush (£26, Sephora.co.uk) in the shade pale pink.

Avoid patchy, unflattering tones on fair skin with this pale pink shade
Avoid patchy, unflattering tones on fair skin with this pale pink shade (The Independent)

“It’s a powder blush known for its silky, matte formula that applies smoothly and evenly. It provides a natural flush without looking overpowering,” says Pal.

For medium skin tones, her go-to is the Armani luminous silk glow blush (£39, Boots.com) in the shade 50, which she describes as “a warm coral shade that enhances medium skin tones with a vibrant yet natural-looking glow.”

If you love a matte blush, this Armani option is Pal’s best pick
If you love a matte blush, this Armani option is Pal’s best pick (The Independent)

Fenty Beauty’s cheeks out freestyle cream blush (£22, Boots.com) takes her top spot for a blush that suits deeper, darker skin tones best, particularly the shade daiquiri dip. In her words, it’s “a vibrant, highly pigmented shade that stands out beautifully on deeper skin tones.”

This bold red blush shows up beautifully on darker complexions
This bold red blush shows up beautifully on darker complexions (The Independent)

In our guide to the best cream blushers, our beauty writer loved the Merit flush balm cheek colour (£32, Merit.com), especially in the soft peach shade Beverley Hills.

Perfect for delivering a healthy flush, our writer described the finish as comfortingly lightweight: “This creamy blush offers an instant pop of colour which creates a gorgeous glow. Plus, you can easily build it up for a bolder look that doesn’t slide off. The dewy finish also offers a skin plumping effect, and key ingredient vitamin E provides smoothing hydrating too.”

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If you’re looking for more make-up recommendations, read our review of the best cream blushers for a natural and long-lasting glow

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