What is sulphate-free shampoo and is it good for your hair? An expert explains

Are these formulas the secret to healthy glossy locks? We’ve got the lowdown

Ella Duggan
Wednesday 08 May 2024 03:53 EDT
Sulphates are very effective at removing dirt, oil and product buildup
Sulphates are very effective at removing dirt, oil and product buildup (The Independent/ iStock )

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Sulphate-free shampoo is the haircare buzzword heard around the world but what actually is it and what does it do?

It can often feel as though beauty brands overwhelm us with a constant stream of new discoveries when it comes to the latest ingredients, however, sulphate-free shampoos are the real deal. Considered to be an essential swap we should all make to achieve healthier happier hair, many of us have heard of them but remain a little puzzled as to what they actually are.

We’ve done plenty of digging into what makes a great sulphate-free shampoo with our round-up of the best to buy for all hair types and budgets, but it’s time to scrub a little deeper to see what’s going on under the surface.

To get the lowdown on the must-have formulas, we spoke to expert Claire Martin, a head London stylist and hair care educator who frequently tours the UK and Ireland teaching fellow stylists the best ways to care for hair of all types. “While sulphates can be effective cleansers, they can also be harsh and drying, leading to potential negative effects on the hair and scalp,” she told us. “As a result, many brands now offer sulphate-free alternatives to cater to consumers seeking gentler, more natural hair care options.”

Keep reading for everything you need to know about suplhate-free shampoos, including what they are, why brands use them and how they can benefit your hair.

What are sulphates?

“Sulfates, or sulphates, are a chemical compound. They are commonly found in minerals, salts, and substances like sodium sulfate or magnesium sulfate”, Martin explains. Outside of the beauty world, they can also be found in cleaning products, personal care items and even in food additives. 

(Umberto Giannini)

Why do brands use sulphates?

Sulphates are strong cleaning ingredients that are very effective at removing dirt, oil and product buildup. However, Martin goes on to explain that they are also an inexpensive ingredient when mass-producing products. “They also create a satisfying foaming action, which many people associate with thorough cleaning and freshness,” she adds. However, while sulphates may often give off the impression that they are hair-benefitting ingredients, the reality is that they actively cause more damage than good. 

What do sulphates do to my hair?

Martin broke it down for us, sharing five major negative impacts that using a shampoo with sulphates can have on your hair:

  1. Stripping natural oils: Sulphates are powerful detergents that can strip away the natural oils from your scalp and hair, leading to dryness and potential irritation.
  2. Hair damage: Over time, the repeated use of sulphates can weaken the hair shaft, leading to breakage, split ends and dullness.
  3. Scalp irritation: Sulphates can be harsh on the scalp, causing irritation, itching, and redness, particularly for those with sensitive skin or certain scalp conditions like eczema or psoriasis.
  4. Colour fading: For individuals with colour-treated hair, sulphates can cause the colour to fade more quickly, compromising the vibrancy and longevity of the colour.
  5. Curly hair issues: Sulphates can disrupt the natural curl pattern of curly or wavy hair, leading to frizz and loss of definition.

What is sulphate-free shampoo?

Sulphate-free shampoos use milder cleaning agents that are kinder and more gentle on the skin. “They still effectively cleanse the hair but without stripping away as much natural moisture, making them a gentler option, especially for those with sensitive skin or certain hair types like curly or colour-treated hair,” Martin states.

Is sulphate-free shampoo good for hair?

As kinder products, sulphate-free shampoos can help to maintain the hair’s natural moisture, leaving it less dry or irritated and less likely to suffer from breakages. Martin does point out though, that “it’s essential to choose a sulphate-free shampoo that suits your specific hair type and needs for the best results”.

From her experience as a stylist, and insisting her clients make the swap, Martin has been able to see the benefits first hand. “From feedback and research personally, and in my profession, I see a noticeable differences in their hair when switching to sulfate-free shampoo,” Martin explains. “These differences can include reduced dryness, frizz, and irritation, as well as improved moisture retention and overall hair health.”

How can I tell if my shampoo is sulphate-free?

When a brand’s shampoo is sulphate-free they will often state this on the front of the packaging, as this is a key selling point for them. But, just to be extra sure, the best thing to do is read the small print. The most common sulphates used in shampoo are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), so keep an eye out for those trouble makers in ingredient lists.

Which brands are sulphate-free?

Thankfully many much-loved shampoo brands are on the sulphate-free side. We have plenty of personal favourites such as Umberto Giannini’s curl jelly wash (£6.71, Lookfantastic.com), which took our top spot in our review alongside Olaplex’s No.4 bond maintenance (£28, Lookfantastic.com), which is a great pick for those struggling with damaged hair. We also like the Monday haircare repair shampoo (£4, Lookfantastic.com), which came out as one of our favourites for an affordable dose of hair-loving keratin.

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For more ways to get strong glossy locks, check out our review of the best hair oils for every hair type and budget

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