To say I have high-maintenance hair would be an understatement. I am lucky enough to be “blessed” with very thick, very curly hair, and a lot of it. As much as I have grown to love my locks it has been a very long process. A process involving extensive research, the help of more than one hair expert and a carefully curated collection of hero products. As well as a framed picture of Julia Roberts’s hair in the 90s to idolise over.

As a curly girl who is proud of her mop, it is only right that I share some of the products that have helped me get here. Of course, you need a quality shampoo and conditioner, as well as a nourishing hair oil, curl cream, frizz product, brush and microfiber towel – the list goes on and on. But what we often overlook in our hair routines, whether it’s for a lack of time or money, is a conditioning treatment.

It may seem like overkill or a particularly luxurious step to add, but the impacts a deep conditioning treatment can have on our hair is grossly underrated. For me, I’ve spent the last month relying on a tried and true classic in the hair world, Philip Kinglsely’s elasticizer.

A few months ago I went to Mayfair for my consultation at the Philip Kingsley clinic. Here I met with trichologist consultant Ross Clubb to learn everything I was doing wrong with my hair. While he certainly didn’t use those words, he did show me there was a lot I needed to be doing for my hair beyond my standard curly routine. After whipping out a mortifyingly powerful microscope, we found my so-called healthy hair may not be so healthy after all. My scalp health was waning, my thick hair was thinning in random spots, and I had a lot more breakage and split ends than I realised.

Post-consultation I was prescribed my new hair routine, which featured the brand’s bestselling elasticsizer, the history of which is just as iconic. Celebrating its 50th anniversary this year, with the recipe remaining exactly the same, I spoke to brand president and trichologist Anabel Kingsley herself, to learn more about elasticizer’s inception. “Elasticizer was originally formulated by my father (Philip Kingsley) for Hollywood movie star Audrey Hepburn,” Anabel explained. “She had visited him with distressed tresses from the toll of onset styling and was in desperate need of something to get her hair in better condition, but also to give it body and shine.” From there the world’s first pre-shampoo hair treatment was created, and the rest is history.

“So how does it do it?” I hear you cry. Well, Anabel broke it down into four major contributors for me. Firstly, the product contains hydrolyzed elastin, which she explained is a protein that “penetrates the hair shaft, increasing elasticity without weighing your hair down”. “Elasticity is what gives your hair stretch (resistance to breakage),” she added. “Elastin is a protein, and proteins are the building blocks of our hair strength.” Then there’s the oils. Both castor and olive are included in the formula to help lock in moisture and add essential fatty acids for that shiny healthy look. Lastly comes glycerin, which Anabel says “helps your hair to retain moisture, which makes the effects last longer”.

So with my new chemistry lesson in hair and the spirit of Audrey Hepburn beside me, it was time I tried this treatment for myself.

How we tested Philip Kingsley’s Elasticizer

Ella in action testing out the famous pre-shampoo hair treatment (The Independent / Ella Duggan)

During my consultation, I was shown how best to use the Elasticizer, and how often. I sectioned my damp hair and combed generous amounts of the product through each strand, avoiding the scalp and focusing on the lengths instead. Once massaged in it was suggested that I pile my hair into a plastic shower cap and let it sit for 20- 30 minutes (the longer the better) before rinsing off and returning to my usual shower routine. I did just this more or less every time I washed my hair for the next month, averaging out at about 2-3 times a week. I took note of the change in texture, shine and how much breakage or split ends I noticed.

Philip Kingsley elasticizer

Size : Available in: 75 ml, 150 ml, 500 ml and 1000 ml

Key ingredients : Hydrolyzed elastin, cator oil, olive oil and glycerin

Key benefits : Adds elasticity and bounce to fine, medium and coarse hair

Why we love it

Instant results

Silky soft hair

Makes hair lightweight and bouncy

Hair is shinier and colour more prominent

Take note

Time-consuming

My first reaction to elasticizer was in regards to its texture. Super thick, bright-white and scentless, it reminded me of some type of skin ointment. Its stiffness meant it applied onto my hair with great ease, almost like glue (in a good way) and it coated each strand well. I felt as though the product was being instantly absorbed by my thirsty curls and, because of this, I found that I did end up using quite a lot of the product. This is worth keeping in mind as, while I think the price is fitting for the brand’s prestige, it isn’t the cheapest conditioning treatment out there.

Then I simply clipped my gloopy strands atop of my head and let the waiting game begin. I left the product on my hair for 30-minutes to sink, using the time to enjoy a moment of self-care or an opportunity to clean the bathroom. This 30 minutes, which Ross was quite strict on, is possibly the biggest downside with the product. While it’s not unusual to have to let a mask rest before rinsing, as someone whose hair routine is already very time-consuming, this did feel like a big ask.

Once I started to wash off the treatment though, I instantly began to see what all the hype was about, making the wait worth it. The hair underneath felt silky smooth to the touch and, while it sounds strange to refer to one’s hair as creamy, it felt just that. I would have liked some kind of a scent from the treatment but it does make sense to keep it fragrance-free given its no-nonsense, effective nature. The elasticizer not only adds moisture to hair follicles, but retains it by using castor and olive oil to seal the cuticles. Despite its thickness, the excess residue is easily rinsed away, so it won’t weigh down even the finest hair.

Once I began to diffuse my locks, I could see a new shine and brightness to it. As someone who dyes their hair (sorry Ross) this helped my blonde strands look lifted and more prominent, potentially giving me more time in between my next dye job. And my curls certainly were not weighed down. The product seemed to encourage my hair pattern’s natural spring, making it feel lightweight, which is a godsend for thick hair. If you feel as though you have dry or coarse hair then I highly suggest you pick up a pot of this. The softness from just the first wash is undeniable and the silky feeling lingers for days, which I appreciated and, so far, seems to only build the more I use it.

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Philip Kingsley elasticizer FAQs:

How to use the Elasticizer?

According to Anabel Kingsley, it took a few years of workshopping in the lab, and trial and error between Hepburn and Kingsley, for them to find the perfect formula. In doing so they realised that the product works best on damp hair, as this raises the cuticles, allowing the product to pentrate and work its magic.

Anabel also suggests leaving it on for as long as possible, saying: “You should apply it to damp hair at least 20 minutes before shampooing and then shampoo and condition as usual. You can even sleep with it in, keep it in while you work from home, or wear it while working out. The longer the product is in your hair the better, it should then be washed out thoroughly, and you will notice results after the first use. Hair will be re–moisturised, shiny, strong and smooth.”

What causes breakage in the hair?

“So many different factors can cause breakage in the hair”, Anabel explains. “From over styling with heated tools such as hairdryers, tongs and straighteners, to UV exposure without SPF protection, and of course, chemical processes such as highlighting and bleaching. This causes hair to become dry and brittle, making our hair more susceptible to breaking easily, leading to split ends and thinning hair.”

She went on to explain that even our diets can have a huge impact on our hair health, suggesting it’s not just about the products but also how we treat our bodies in general. “As a dispensable tissue, our hair is the last to receive the nutrients it needs, so we must make sure that we are eating three balanced meals a day containing proteins, complex carbohydrates, healthy fats, vitamins and minerals,” she said.

The verdict: Philip Kingsley’s elasticizer

Yes, the elasticizer is worth the hype. While I do think adding this time-consuming step into your routine is a big commitment, the results speak for themselves. I have noticed less breakage and a decrease in my split ends, which I’m sure will continue the more I use it. While the product does feel clinical, it is exactly this no-nonsense approach that helps deliver soft, shiny and long-lasting results. I would advise avoiding the scalp due to the thickness of the product making it a candidate for build-up. But, it is this thickness and intense hydration that adds and locks in moisture around the hair follicle to encourage healthier and more nourished hair growth. Whether you have thick or thin hair, or you are struggling with breakage, damage, split ends or dryness, I do think the elasticizer is worth a go. If it’s good enough for Audrey Hepburn, it’s more than good enough for me.

Looking for more haircare tips? Read our round-up of the best sulphate-free shampoos

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This 50-year-old hair treatment saved my curls, and it’s all thanks to Audrey Hepburn

Philip Kingsley’s iconic elasticizer celebrates its 50th anniversary this year – but is it really worth the hype?