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The Christmas cookbooks to buy this year, according to top chefs and food writers

From Tom Kerridge to Felicity Cloake, experts recommend their favourite tomes to help you create a show-stopping festive feast

Eva Waite-Taylor
Friday 11 December 2020 08:38 EST
Whether it’s our first Christmas lunch or you’re hundredth, take the advice from these pros
Whether it’s our first Christmas lunch or you’re hundredth, take the advice from these pros (The Independent/iStock)

When we conjure up thoughts of Christmas, food is usually one of the first things that comes to mind.

Festive eating is about far more than just the turkey and trimmings you have on the big day itself and the leftovers on Boxing Day.

It’s the feeling of being well and truly stuffed from Christmas Day until the end of Twixmas, (the period between Christmas and New Year).

For many, food is a massive part of the celebration, and when asked why it’s become quite so important, writer Felicity Cloake says it’s “the one thing that brings us all together.”

"Not everyone celebrates it as a religious festival, not everyone drinks – but everyone eats, and it’s a lovely excuse to sit down together and enjoy it,” she adds.

Chef Tom Kerridge couldn’t agree more, adding that food “brings people to a table in a social way. It is the gathering of sense of warmth and goodwill that surrounds food, particularly at Christmas, which makes it so special.”

But with this level of importance can come a sense of immense stress for even the most seasoned home cooks.

And cooking your first Christmas dinner can be a daunting experience, if you’re nervous, chef Rukmini Iyer recommends “doing a practice run” beforehand. 

Henry Firth and Ian Theasby, the duo behind the plant-based cooking sensation BOSH!, suggest if it’s your first turkey-free Christmas, figure out what you want to make well in advance. They recommend you “inject some fun into it and challenge your family or friends to make the meatiest vegan dish they can for the day – think bangers in blankets or our ‘faux gras'!”

To help you on your quest to create a show-stopping spread this Christmas, we asked the top chefs to share their favourite cookbooks. With recommendations from the likes of Paul Ainsworth and Miguel Barclay, you’re in safe hands here. Happy feasting!  

You can trust our independent round-ups. We may earn commission from some of the retailers, but we never allow this to influence selections, which are formed from real-world testing and expert advice. This revenue helps to fund journalism across The Independent.

Paul Ainsworth’s pick: ‘Proper Pub Food’ by Tom Kerridge, published by Absolute Press

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Paul Ainsworth is chef-patron of Paul Ainsworth at No 6

If you’re looking for restorative food for a cold, grey day, this is the cookbook for you. “While it’s not dedicated to Christmas it has some great, hearty recipes,” says Ainsworth, who noted that the “slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with boulangère potatoes” was his favourite dish from the book. We know what we’re making during the Christmas period. 

According to Ainsworth, food is “THE most important element about Christmas Day. Food is a magical, powerful thing that brings people together and that’s what Christmas is all about – enjoying a beautiful meal with the most important people in your life”. 

With any luck then, this cookbook will equip you with the skills and knowledge you need to create a show-stopping feast that will bring your loved ones together.

  1.  £14 from Amazon
Prices may vary
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Rukmini Iyer’s pick: ‘Flavour’ by Yotam Ottolenghi, published by Ebury Press

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Rukmini Iyer is the food writer behind the best-selling Roasting Tin series, including her latest The Roasting Tin Around the World

A big fan of Ottolenghi, Iyer’s pick was justified by her opinion that “Christmas is an opportunity to push the boat out with cooking, and if you enjoy being in the kitchen and have a few hands on deck to prep and cook together, the recipes in Flavour are well worth the effort. And they lend themselves to mixing and matching so well for sharing feasts.” 

  1.  £16 from Amazon
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BOSH’s pick: ‘Vegan Christmas’ by Gaz Oakley, published by Quadrille Publishing

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Henry Firth and Ian Theasby are the duo behind BOSH! the social media sensation that has taken the vegan community by storm. They have since released a range of cookbooks, including Speedy BOSH! 

If you’re embarking on a plant-based Christmas this year, or perhaps you're a seasoned pro, the BOSH! boys recommend Vegan Christmas by Gaz Oakley, since it’s full of “wonderful recipes to choose from, and as always has great imagery and flavours too”. If they had to choose, their favourite recipe from the book is the “smoked chilli and rosemary doughball fondue”, thanks to it being “a great thing to share with friends and family during the festivities”. 

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Felicity Cloake’s pick: ‘Nigella Christmas: Food, Family, Friends, Festivities’ by Nigella Lawson, published by Random House

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Felicity Cloake is a food writer and author of four books, including Completely Perfect: 120 Essential Recipes for Every Cook

Having worked her way through most cookbooks as a food columnist, Cloake tends to rely on her own versions of recipes, but has come to love “Nigella Lawson's irreverent approach to Christmas”, which is her go-to for festive cooking beyond the big day. Her favourite recipe? It “has to be Nigella’s gingerbread stuffing — sweet, spicy and rich it’s so ridiculously good you don’t even need turkey with it”. We know what we’ll be trying on Christmas Day!

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Miguel Barclay’s pick: ‘How to Cook the Perfect…’ by Marcus Wareing, published by Dorling Kindersley Ltd

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Miguel Barclay is known as the One Pound Chef and author of five best-selling cookbooks, including Storecupboard One Pound Meals

How to Cook the Perfect… offers a chef’s level of understanding with step-by-step recipes to help you achieve a show-stopper at home, and according to Barclay he still uses “these philosophies today", adding that he really likes to keep “things simple but cooked perfectly when it comes to Christmas”. With this in mind, his advice to you this year is “cook chicken instead of turkey. Why would you put yourself under so much pressure? Turkey is really tricky to cook and takes up the whole oven, just do two chickens, you can almost cook a chicken with your eyes closed, it’s one hour and 20 minutes." 

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Diana Henry’s pick: ‘Roast Figs, Sugar Snow’ by Diana Henry, published by Mitchell Beazley

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Diana Henry is a food writer and author of nine cookery books, including From the Oven to the Table

During the cold months, we need food that warms the soul, which is why Henry selected her own Roast Figs, Sugar Snow as her go-to. When writing it, the food writer and author said it involved “lots of travelling in cold, often snowy, places to do the research for it”. Adding that it’s a collection of her favourite cold-weather recipes in one place, and she usually makes the same dishes every year. "That’s what Christmas is like – continuity and familiarity”.

Her favourite recipes? "My Danish goose (with a rye and prune stuffing), ale-soaked plum pudding, gravlax (I always make that at Christmas), and Russian smoked fish pie, as well as a Christmassy bread and butter pudding (made with mincemeat, apples, cranberries and whisky) and Scandinavian mulled wine”. A delicious compilation that will see you through the festive season and winter months. 

  1.  £18 from Bookshop
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Tom Kerridge pick: ‘Delia’s Happy Christmas’ by Delia Smith, published by Ebury Press

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Tom Kerridge is an English Michelin-starred chef, pub owner and writer of a range of cookbooks, including The Hand & Flowers Cookbook

Thanks to Delia Smith’s “easy to follow” recipes that are “guaranteed to work”, Kerridge praised her cookbooks for helping to make “Christmas a little easier”. Delia’s Happy Christmas offers a fool-proof guide to festive food and will help you plan your celebrations to the very last culinary detail.

If you’re searching for advice on how to tackle your first Christmas show-stopper, Kerridge offered up some words of wisdom: “Get yourself organised, work cleanly and don’t be scared of doing lots of things in advance, even cooking the veg the day before.” We’ll take that!

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