Restaurants: Where shall we meet in Chinatown

Serena Mackesy
Friday 15 January 1999 19:02 EST
Comments

Your support helps us to tell the story

From reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.

At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.

The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.

Your support makes all the difference.

Millions of people would rather die than live in a city: every urbanite has had the experience of being dragged down to the country for the weekend only to spend the entire time being lectured about how horrible their favourite city is and how everyone pities them for having to live there. The thing is, people live in cities for many reasons: the culture, the easy access to social life, the desire not to spend one's life on the slip road to the superstore that drove the village shop out of business.

I'm convinced that people also live in cities for the dim sum. I don't think one could find a more urban tradition. Sharing plates of glutinous dumplings is one of the most popular pastimes for week-ending Londoners, which is particularly strange, given how unpleasant the experience often is. I would never conceive of being such a victim that I queued for a bar or a restaurant under normal circumstances, but for dim sum, particularly at Chuen Cheng Ku, I am perfectly content to stand in a corridor for half an hour while an exhausted infant squalls in my ear.

Chinatown is crammed with places to get char siu bao (fluffy buns stuffed with barbecued pork) or those lovely slippery pancakes, chueng fun, but this cavernous restaurant always attracts crowds of Europeans and Chinese alike. And it's worth the wait. I always take Americans here, as it's one of the few restaurants in London that they won't compare unfavourably with New York.

Beside the excellent quality of their snacks, Chuen Cheng Ku is one of only two restaurants (the other being New World, see right) that do their dim sum Hong Kong-style, off trolleys that whizz about the wide aisles between tables, and this added level of stress makes the whole experience doubly delightful. It's like hailing taxis, only pleasurable.

And where one almost invariably under-orders in menu-driven dim-sumeries, incurring the wrath of the staff by having to ask for seconds, here one can gorge, and nobody but you and the waiter who takes your bill will know how much you've had.

Happiness, on a wet Sunday afternoon, can still be found in the heart of a shark's fin dumpling.

Chuen Cheng Ku, 17 Wardour Street, London W1 (0171-437 1398)

Join our commenting forum

Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies

Comments

Thank you for registering

Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged inPlease refresh your browser to be logged in