Brunch on Saturday: Fresh takes on French classics and an oriental alternative
This week in Brunch on Saturday, we go decadent with lobster Benedict in a French restaurant and break the mould at home with a chunky and healthy Taiwanese vegetable roll
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The Balcon
The French know how to brunch – well, with a little inspiration from the Brits which is what the new menu at the Balcon offers. Attached to the Sofitel hotel, it is named for its centrepiece balcony which hosts the champagne cellar. Two grand sprial staircases lead up to it – it is decadent and rather fabulous. And sitting in Pall Mall, what more would you expect.
The interior is elegant in rich golden tones, with black-and-pale wood, striped parquet flooring, brass hanging chandeliers, high ceilings and white colonnades – respecting its grade II listed status. And it boasts some of the best and friendliest service. The team are eager to show off their Bloody Mary bar – introduced along with the new menu in September. In DIY fashion, choose your vodka, choose your sauce along with gherkins and lemons and whatever you fancy.
The menu – presented on iPads – is split into mains, grill, fruits and seeds, “eggs and co”, and sides and has been inspired by a modern British brunch, mixing the Balcon’s signature French cuisine, with culinary traditions in what they call “Le Brunch”, served Saturdays and Sundays. It’s contemporary and indulgent. The most popular dish on the extensive menu is, unsurprisingly, the lobster Benedict at £19 – huge chunks of poached lobster, with hollandaise sauce on English muffins is divine. For something a little more like an English, dare we say, fry-up, go for the eggs any style – Yorkshire bacon, mushroom and slow-roasted tomato, nicely piled on to a large sourdough slice of toast, for £16.
Sides are more like dishes in themselves, with smashed avocado, eggs any style, grilled halloumi and rosemary fries as just one side, for £3.50. The fruit and seeds section covers the likes of fruit saldas, with coconut and passion fruit dressing, at £6. And on the grill, there is sirloin and even a Tomahawk steak for two.
If you’ve got room, go for the pancakes – made with banana, coconut and blueberry, served with syrup and ice cream. But what did you expect – they’re generous and can definitely be shared.
At the bottom is the free-flowing brunch aimed at celebratory parties priced at £49 with champagne, a main, a pastry and a Bloody Mary over a two-hour period.
It is undeniably sophisticated and an experience in its self – and made for celebratory occasions.
The Balcon, 8 Pall Mall, London, SW1Y 5NG, thebalcon.london@sofitel.com, thebalconlondon.com
Brunching in...
Taiwanese vegetable roll
Serves 4
1 tbsp white sesame seeds
1 dried tofu skin (about 50cm), softened
450g packed spinach leaves or any other leafy vegetable
4 dried black mushrooms, soaked in water, until soft, stems discarded, any caps finely sliced
4 tbsp shredded carrot (optional)
1 tbsp porcini mushroom powder
¾ tsp salt
½ tsp sesame oil
1 egg, beaten
1 tbsp vegetable oil
Coridander to garnish (optional)
Toast the sesame seeds in a small pan over medium heat and shake occasionally for 3-5 minutes or until golden brown. Set aside. Fold the tofu skin into a quadrant and trim the sides to create 4 square pieces.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat, add the spinach, and blanch for 30 seconds.
Drain and rinse under cold running water. Use your hands to squeeze out excess moisture. Coarsely chop the leaves. For the filling, combine the spinach, mushrooms, carrots (if using), porcini powder, sesame seeds, salt, and sesame oil in a bowl.
Divide the filling into 4 equal portions.
Brush some egg on to a piece of tofu skin, place the filling along one edge of the rectangle. Roll the skin, tucking in the edges, then finish rolling it up.
Heat the vegetable oil in a large skillet (frying pan), add the vegetable rolls, and brown on both sides over medium-low heat for 4-6 minutes, then remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Cut each roll into 5 pieces before serving. Garnish with coriander.
China: The Cookbook, by Kei Lum and Diora Fong Chan. Published by Phaidon £29.95
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