Mistletoe and wine

“Mistletoe and Wine” may be one of Sir Cliff Richard's biggest hits, but it can also be the inspiration behind a beauty look that can be as subtle or as glamorous as the mood takes. Rich wine- and berry-stained lips were big on the catwalk for autumn/winter, where make-up artist Pat McGrath created a glossy gothic version at Gucci and Givenchy that was reminiscent of jam sandwiches. While at Jil Sander, Chanel make-up creative director Peter Philips' matte rose-bud lips had something of the freshly bitten berry about them.

The trend continues into next season too, although autumn's dark angels lighten up somewhat for the spring weather. Mattified reds appeared at Prada, Burberry and Jason Wu, while Dries Van Noten and Giles were both in the pinks.

While pillar-box red is an eternal classic, a deeper shade is often more flattering and can be easier to get the right colour for different skin tone. For evening, opt for a dense colour with a hint of shimmer or sheen. Darker colours, especially matte ones, can make lips seem smaller, but avoid the temptation to trace outside the natural lip line. Instead use a dab or two of gloss to reflect the light.

Lip liner is important to help create a barrier so that your smile doesn't smudge, although the way to wear this trend is less precise than in previous incarnations – grunge can be good.

For daytime a strong lip colour looks best balanced with a more minimal look – such as at Naeem Kahn's spring/summer show. But once night has fallen, pair it with dazzling eye make-up to re-write all the beauty rules.